Post by Jack3KGT on Jul 26, 2006 9:57:58 GMT -5
From what I understand, most Honda Manual transmissions are the same, so this should apply to most models, just check your manual for fluid levels and amounts.
Here's the play-by-play:
Time 30-45 minutes, depending on how much of a hurry you're in. I took an hour, learning curve.
Tools you will need: 3/8 inch socket set and wrench & torque wrench
You'll need to fabricate a special funnel to reach from the engine compartment down to the filler hole. This is the tricky part, or you can just buy one like I did.
I was able to find a better way to do this; the fill hole is facing the passenger side, so I just removed the passenger front tire, and was able to access it much easier that way.
There are convoluted instructions on making a 36-inch fill funnel with a 90 degree turn on the end of it to fill from the engine compartment, just take the damn tire off, you’ll thank me later. I tried it the "other way" and it took me an hour to realize that this 30-minute instruction manual wasn't correct, easy, or fun.
Auto Zone sells a hose attachment ($3.99) that threads directly to the top of the new bottle of gear oil, which has an on & off position flow-valve (so it doesn't leak everywhere until you get it positioned and can start the flow). Needless to say, it was well worth the $4 for the 12-inch plastic hose extention and valve.
You'll also need a way to get under the car such as a floor jack and jack stands (remember, SAFETY FIRST!), as well as a pan or something to catch the oil. Make sure the pan clears the bottom of the car with the car down (not jacked-up). The reason becomes clear later.
Step 1. Warm-up the engine, it’ll make the fluid drain out faster. With the engine off, block the tires and jack-up the passenger-side of the car. Get those jack stands under there for safety!
Step 2. Remove the front passenger side tire.
Step 3. THE BOLTS
FINDING THE BOLTS. They look completely different from the other assembly bolts. The filler is very large compared to the rest. They are both on the PASSENGER SIDE of the transmission case, NOT THE BOTTOM. I didn’t actually have to get under the car, raising it just made it easier to work on.
The Fill Bolt
Remove the filler hole bolt using a 17mm socket. You may need a breaker bar 'cause it's in there pretty tightly.
-the bolt, as you are looking directly at the shaft coming out of the transmission on the passenger side, is directly to the left of it, can’t miss it.
The Drain Bolt
Insert the SQUARE SOCKET DRIVE on a 3/8-inch socket wrench directly into the drain plug (NO SOCKET REQUIRED, the wrench square extension fits perfect, designed to work this way).
The bolt was really stubborn so I again used a 1/2 inch breaker bar. Get your drain pan under the drain hole, it's about to get messy & fun. Unscrew the bolt and drain the transmission, take note of the condition of the oil/fluid. (Honda's change interval is 30,000 miles for normal driving conditions)
Step 4. While the trans is draining, CAREFULLY lower the car to ride-level to let as much trans fluid as possible drain out. Make sure your drain pan doesn't get crushed. Wait 5 minutes or so before raising the car again, let it all drip out..
Step 5. With the car back up on jack stands, replace the drain bolt using a new washer if possible, it's recommended and like 90 cents at the Honda dealer. Tighten finger tight then torque to 29 ft-lb (4.0 kg-m).
Step 6.. Using the handy-dandy tube-funnel, open your first quart of Valvoline Synchromesh ($6.50 a QT at Auto-Zone), thread the tube assembly onto it, then insert the tube into the fill hole. Open the flow valve on the fill tube and let the transmission fill up. Repeat this for the 2nd quart, if you hold the bottle level, it will flow smoothly and slowly, no spilling, and allowing air in the trans to escape.
Step 7. When finished, your transmission will hold exactly 2 quarts. (Mine did, it’s a 94 Prelude Si. Same is true for *most* mid 90’s Hondas.
Stick your finger in the fill hole, the level should be just to the bottom of your fill hole, you’ll be able to feel it, this is why the hole is so big, so you can check it. Fill it more if it’s not, but don’t over fill it. If you overfill it, it will just run out, and then stop at the proper level, at the bottom of your fill-hole. Not rocket science.
* Checking the Trans fluid level is tough to do without a (level) lift. The car must be level so if you raise the car with a jack, you will not get a true reading, lower it to ride height when you do your level check.
Step 8. Reinstall the fill bolt with a new washer. Finger tight then torque to 33 ft-lb (4.5 kg-m).
Lower car and you're done.. just remember to check for leaks!
Good luck!
Special thanks to Super-Honda for getting me half-way there. I used some of their info to create my own complete write-up…
I used Valvoline Synchromesh because it was the best stuff out there, and only Auto Zone carries it to the best of my knowledge. I would only use it or the Honda OEM MT Fluid. I had read stories of others using synthetics in their cars as I had planned, and it causing problems later on with bad synchros & transmission damage. Apparently there is a problem with them becoming deteriorated by something in the formula, so just stay away from the synthetics on these Honda’s…The Synchromesh has a notivible difference in ease-of-shifting already. Once it warms up, I can shift with one finger and about zero effort, so i'm sure it's doing good things for my transmission!
Total Cost $21.00
Total Time, About an hour.
Here's the play-by-play:
Time 30-45 minutes, depending on how much of a hurry you're in. I took an hour, learning curve.
Tools you will need: 3/8 inch socket set and wrench & torque wrench
You'll need to fabricate a special funnel to reach from the engine compartment down to the filler hole. This is the tricky part, or you can just buy one like I did.
I was able to find a better way to do this; the fill hole is facing the passenger side, so I just removed the passenger front tire, and was able to access it much easier that way.
There are convoluted instructions on making a 36-inch fill funnel with a 90 degree turn on the end of it to fill from the engine compartment, just take the damn tire off, you’ll thank me later. I tried it the "other way" and it took me an hour to realize that this 30-minute instruction manual wasn't correct, easy, or fun.
Auto Zone sells a hose attachment ($3.99) that threads directly to the top of the new bottle of gear oil, which has an on & off position flow-valve (so it doesn't leak everywhere until you get it positioned and can start the flow). Needless to say, it was well worth the $4 for the 12-inch plastic hose extention and valve.
You'll also need a way to get under the car such as a floor jack and jack stands (remember, SAFETY FIRST!), as well as a pan or something to catch the oil. Make sure the pan clears the bottom of the car with the car down (not jacked-up). The reason becomes clear later.
Step 1. Warm-up the engine, it’ll make the fluid drain out faster. With the engine off, block the tires and jack-up the passenger-side of the car. Get those jack stands under there for safety!
Step 2. Remove the front passenger side tire.
Step 3. THE BOLTS
FINDING THE BOLTS. They look completely different from the other assembly bolts. The filler is very large compared to the rest. They are both on the PASSENGER SIDE of the transmission case, NOT THE BOTTOM. I didn’t actually have to get under the car, raising it just made it easier to work on.
The Fill Bolt
Remove the filler hole bolt using a 17mm socket. You may need a breaker bar 'cause it's in there pretty tightly.
-the bolt, as you are looking directly at the shaft coming out of the transmission on the passenger side, is directly to the left of it, can’t miss it.
The Drain Bolt
Insert the SQUARE SOCKET DRIVE on a 3/8-inch socket wrench directly into the drain plug (NO SOCKET REQUIRED, the wrench square extension fits perfect, designed to work this way).
The bolt was really stubborn so I again used a 1/2 inch breaker bar. Get your drain pan under the drain hole, it's about to get messy & fun. Unscrew the bolt and drain the transmission, take note of the condition of the oil/fluid. (Honda's change interval is 30,000 miles for normal driving conditions)
Step 4. While the trans is draining, CAREFULLY lower the car to ride-level to let as much trans fluid as possible drain out. Make sure your drain pan doesn't get crushed. Wait 5 minutes or so before raising the car again, let it all drip out..
Step 5. With the car back up on jack stands, replace the drain bolt using a new washer if possible, it's recommended and like 90 cents at the Honda dealer. Tighten finger tight then torque to 29 ft-lb (4.0 kg-m).
Step 6.. Using the handy-dandy tube-funnel, open your first quart of Valvoline Synchromesh ($6.50 a QT at Auto-Zone), thread the tube assembly onto it, then insert the tube into the fill hole. Open the flow valve on the fill tube and let the transmission fill up. Repeat this for the 2nd quart, if you hold the bottle level, it will flow smoothly and slowly, no spilling, and allowing air in the trans to escape.
Step 7. When finished, your transmission will hold exactly 2 quarts. (Mine did, it’s a 94 Prelude Si. Same is true for *most* mid 90’s Hondas.
Stick your finger in the fill hole, the level should be just to the bottom of your fill hole, you’ll be able to feel it, this is why the hole is so big, so you can check it. Fill it more if it’s not, but don’t over fill it. If you overfill it, it will just run out, and then stop at the proper level, at the bottom of your fill-hole. Not rocket science.
* Checking the Trans fluid level is tough to do without a (level) lift. The car must be level so if you raise the car with a jack, you will not get a true reading, lower it to ride height when you do your level check.
Step 8. Reinstall the fill bolt with a new washer. Finger tight then torque to 33 ft-lb (4.5 kg-m).
Lower car and you're done.. just remember to check for leaks!
Good luck!
Special thanks to Super-Honda for getting me half-way there. I used some of their info to create my own complete write-up…
I used Valvoline Synchromesh because it was the best stuff out there, and only Auto Zone carries it to the best of my knowledge. I would only use it or the Honda OEM MT Fluid. I had read stories of others using synthetics in their cars as I had planned, and it causing problems later on with bad synchros & transmission damage. Apparently there is a problem with them becoming deteriorated by something in the formula, so just stay away from the synthetics on these Honda’s…The Synchromesh has a notivible difference in ease-of-shifting already. Once it warms up, I can shift with one finger and about zero effort, so i'm sure it's doing good things for my transmission!
Total Cost $21.00
Total Time, About an hour.